Royal Chitwan National Park, Nepal
Friday 13th January 2006:
From Kathmandu to Royal Chitwan National Park
Rose and I slept well. After showering we went down for breakfast. It was a very foggy morning. I will write more about that later. After breakfast we checked our email. I wrote one to Corinne. We then did some final packing before heading down to the hotel lobby. My driver was leaving at 10am and Rose’s at 10:30. We said our farewells to Russell, Linda and Jenny. Russell was leaving the next day while Linda and Jenny were going on to India for a few days. James had left for the UK at 6:30 but we had said goodbye to him last night. Rose and Kath were heading for Bangkok later in the day.
Kathmandu Airport
I was pleased to have the company of Jade and Kane for the trip to Royal Chitwan National Park. The domestic airport was utter chaos, as it usually is I believe. The tickets said our flight was at 11:15am but we only took off at 1:30pm due to fog at our destination Bharatpur. Unknown to us we had to first touch down at Meghauli which is close to the Tiger Tops Lodge. About half of the passengers got off at this point. The airport there is just a small one with a grass runway, which doubled as a soccer field I think. We had ten minutes there to stretch our legs and use the toilet (which was western style and very clean!). We then flew for about another 6-7 minutes to Bharatpur. This has a sealed airstrip with a well kept looking building. We didn’t need to go inside the building and our Peregrine driver took our bags to his car.
Bharatpur to Chitwan NP
I was concerned that his car wasn’t going to make it out of the car park. It wheezed and rattled, the brakes seemed dodgy and the steering wheel shuddered. Little wonder it was in such a state when we drove the 40 minutes to Royal Park Hotel, Chitwan, near the town of Sauraha. Dodging pedestrians, bicycles, motor bikes, buses, tractors, trucks, goats, ducks, chickens, tempos and taxis is a remarkable skill shown by all drivers in Nepal. And all the time those incessant horns are blaring. No-one takes any notice of them so why do they use them? The buses in this part of Nepal are all decorated Indian style, though not quite as elaborate. Most of the road, except for the last five kilometres, is supposedly sealed. Our driver seemed to know every pot hole. There were quite a few of them!
Kathmandu, Nepal
Thursday 12th January 2006.
In Kathmandu:
Last night out trekking group went out for dinner together. Ananta (our guide) led us on a half hour walk to Thamel. We had a table booked at Kilroy’s of Kathmandu. The menu listed an impressive array of celebrities who had been served by Kilroy’s over the years.
Dead Cow
I ordered a sizzling loin steak. As the waiter brought it in it really was sizzling. It was also delicious. I followed this up with apple crumble topped with ice-cream. It was also great – almost as good as Corinne’s apple crumble! Total cost, including two glasses of Sprite, was Rs800 (about $16). Try getting a meal like than in Australia for so little. One of the waiters had a great sense of humour. He kept asking me if I liked the taste of my ‘dead cow’. Ananta left the restaurant early because his mother was very ill and had been admitted to hospital that afternoon.
Rose really slept well all night but I had trouble sleeping. My nose was very blocked from the pollution and the room seemed stuffy. I also had feelings of being somewhat claustrophobic, a feeling I’ve had on a number of occasions on this trip. I think I like the open spaces we have in Australia.
Shopping in Patan
After a late breakfast we checked and wrote emails. We then went shopping in the Patan district at a shop Rose knew about from her friend Alexa. I bought some really lovely batik wall hangings showing scenes of Nepal. We then caught a taxi back to the hotel.
Kathmandu International Study Centre (KISC)
After lunch at the hotel we used one of the hotel cars to drive us to the Kathmandu International Study Centre (KISC). Rose had arranged for us to meet some of the teachers there, including the current principal, Judith Ellis. She is so enthusiastic about her mission in the school. We also met the new primary principal who hopes to open the year 1 to 5 section in August. I spoke at length to one of the current classroom teachers who is from America.
KISC provides a Christian education for the children of missionaries in Nepal. This comprises about 80% of their students while the remainder are private students. They do not have many from the diplomatic community as they are generally catered for in other private schools. Rose visited because she is interested in coming her in the future, perhaps in 18 months time. The school year starts in July. They are currently looking for teachers both primaty and secondary, so contact them if you are interested in a challenging teaching appointment.
Impressive Programme
I was full of questions and was most impressed with the programme being run. They follow a combination of American and English curricula. Both principals did a very good sales job on me, especially when I told them that Corinne is also a teacher and that we would be basically self funded. It is very attractive from a teaching point of view but it would be very challenging from a living point of view. It would also be a very drastic change of lifestyle and life goals. Lord – I didn’t need a challenge like this!
Christian Leadership
It is doubly challenging from a Christian leadership point of view. Judith said that the local Nepalese need strong leadership training. They are very good at evangelism but very weak at discipling and applying scriptural principles to their everyday lives. It was a very interesting and challenging hour of discussion. They gave me a wad of promotional pamphlets to distribute on my return home.
In the evening we walked into Thamel again. Dorgie took us to the Four Season Restaurant. Again, the food was great and we had a great time talking. We returned at 9pm but at no time did I feel in danger being out at night. I was amused to see three cows wandering the street near our hotel. I wonder where they go during the day?
Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu Nepal
Wednesday 11th January 2006.
 Another flight from Lukla to Kathmandu.
 Last night most of us stayed up until about 9:30pm sitting around the lovely fire in the dining room. We listened to some music and talked about our favourite films, music, television series and books.
 We were woken at 6am for a 6:30am breakfast, so a leisurely arising was out of the question. We had a quick cup of tea, washed, dressed and packed our bags. A light breakfast was all I could stomach. After that we waited for the airport siren to summon us to complete the five minute walk to the terminal. On entry to the airport we were again frisked and our carry on bags were checked. We had a half hour wait for the plane to arrive from Kathmandu. This time I had a single seat second from the cockpit. I wasn’t as cramped as the first flight and I had an excellent view of the pilots in action. I also had a great view out through the window.
 Spectacular views
The views from the plane were quite spectacular but the windows were too dirty for effective photography. The ride was quite bumpy in sections, mainly in the first half but quite smooth for the last twenty minutes. Transit through the domestic airport was quick and we were soon back in the Shangri La Hotel, a haven of peace and tranquillity in the midst of this frenetic city.
 Emails home
After unpacking our trekking duffle bags we settled into our room for the next two nights. I then went to the Business Centre and spent the next hour and a quarter writing a long email to all those on my list for the trip plus a short one to Corinne. Meanwhile, Rose had a well deserved bath. Later Rose and I went down to the dining room to have a chicken hamburger each for lunch.
 Shopping in Kathmandu
After lunch Rose and Kath went to Patan to do some shopping. I went for about an hour’s walk up and down the street outside the hotel. I bought some postcards and bottles of water. When I returned to our room I wrote out postcards I was sending to Corinne, Mum and Simon and Leanne. When Rose returned from shopping she was not feeling well and had developed a tummy upset. “Timing is everything,†she said, “it could have been on the plane!â€
 Catching up on washing
This morning, when we were unpacking our trekking gear we both sorted through our clothes and each had a bag of laundry to be done. It had to be ready at 10am and I just had a call to say that it is being sent up to the room shortly. It is now 4:30pm so that is a really good service. I didn’t check the prices but I had such a lot to do I couldn’t have dried it in the bathroom in time to leave for Chitwan the day after tomorrow.
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Trek from Phakding to Lukla, Nepal
Tuesday 10th January 2006.
Trek Day 8: Phakding to Lukla
Some of the trekking group stayed up until 10pm last night singing and dancing in the small dining room. At 8pm I was so tired I just had to head off to bed early. I fell asleep almost immediately and was only vaguely aware of Rose coming to bed later. I slept soundly all night only waking a few times to roll over and in so doing resting the bruised spot on each hip. The almost non-existent mattresses are real hip bruisers. I was pleased to get some good sleep because it was extremely cold. I usually do not like using the hood of a sleeping bag, but over the last three nights I have had to use it.
Pool Games
Before dinner last night I played pool in the pool room of the lodge. They have a regular sized pool table as well as a large size snooker table. They weren’t carried up to the lodge in one piece but were rather taken up in pieces and assembled inside the pool room.
Room Service
This morning we were able to sleep in until woken at 8am with the usual cup of tea delivered to our room. This is very nice and I am getting used to the room service. We had breakfast at 9 o’clock and were on our way again by 9:30am.
The track back to Lukla is fairly level for much of the way until the last climb up to Lukla which is about 200 metres and takes about an hour. Nothing here is measured in distance. It is always in hours or days for the longer trips. We arrived at about midday after two and a half hours walking. We all had a drink before lunch. I am really getting used to the hot lemon drink they serve as a beverage.
Lukla, Nepal
The town of Lukla is quite prosperous looking, probably as a result of the trekkers. There are many lodges and hotels here too. I guess many tourists fly in here for a few days without going on an extended trek. It is quite a good destination to just get a taste of the mountains and their amazing grandeur. The track to our lodge goes down the main street. There is a wide range of things available for sale, but prices tend to be cheaper in Kathmandu. I noticed quite a few places offered STD and ISD connections as well as internet availability.
Lukla Numbur Hotel
Our lodge is the Peregrine preferred one called the Lukla Numbur Hotel. Compared to those on the trek it is very nice. The bed mattresses are four inch foam and have quilt with beautiful designs on them. (They were so lovely I took a photo). The rooms are more spacious and have an en suite! After lunch many of us enjoyed a long shower. Some in the group did not get any hot water. They are solar heated so I guess too much demand was placed on the water supply.
Farewell to our Porters
Our room here has a westerly aspect so it is lovely and warm right now at 4:20pm. We were outside at 3pm for the presentations to the porters and the sherpas and the air was quite chilly, especially in the shade. On the last day we are expected to give a tip to the sherpas and porters. This includes a monetary tip plus a gift of any excess clothing, water bottles and so on. I gave a total of about $30 Australian which is about $10 more than what is expected. I did this for two reasons. Firstly, they really looked after me when I struggled. Secondly, I had no other items to donate. The clothing I bought in Australia was so expensive I was very reluctant to part with it.
Security at Lukla
As we entered Lukla we were very aware of the police numbers (blue uniforms) and strong army presence (green uniforms). There were also quite a few police last night at Phakding. The airport here at Lukla is particularly well garrisoned. Several bunkers overlook our hotel which is right next to the airport. Before lunch I took a few photos of the surrounding mountains but I was careful not to aim my camera at the soldiers. There is no sense in tempting trouble.
A poignant reminder
While we were waiting for lunch Ananta and James started playing cricket in the hotel garden. The ball went over the fence and was rescued by a young boy who would have loved to have joined in the game, I’m sure. He watched them through the razor wire surrounding our hotel. I carefully took a photo of him. It will be a poignant reminder of the current political unrest in this country. I was careful not to include the bunker only a few feet above his head. Zoom lenses are great in situations like that.
My appetite returns
Lunch today was great. I’m getting my appetite back again. My nose is also improving. Blowing blood clots is quite normal when trekking. Fortunately there was not as much dust today. My major concern is my feet. They are bruised, sore and blistered. The blister on my left heel burst today and has been left raw and very sore over an area about the size of a ten cent coin. I asked Ananta to bandage it. Kath also gave me some extra bandaging for it. I will try to get some extra things in Kathmandu for it. My toe nails are also very battered and bruised.
Observations while Trekking in Nepal
Monday 9th January 2006.
Trek Day 7 Namche to Phakding
As I write this in my journal one of the lodge workers has just come in to light the fire. It still takes quite a while for the dining room to warm up. Then after dinner when we are sitting around talking, listening to the guitar or reading, the fire makes the room hot enough to start taking off layers put on during the late afternoon. Later, at bedtime, one has to rug up again ready to brave the outside air to go to our freezing room. Even in lodges where we do not have to go outside to get to the room the air is far cooler away from the heater. Thankfully our sleeping bags are very warm.
Drinking Water
Every evening during the trek drinking water is boiled for us and then our water bottles are topped up ready for the day’s hike. Most of us had at least two of these flasks, each containing a litre of water. Many others in the trekking group used these flasks to heat their sleeping bags before they crawled into them for the night. I didn’t need to do that; I didn’t want a cold lump around my feet at four o’clock in the morning.
Buildings along the track
The buildings along the trek route are amazing. Most have been made using local granite, hand cut to shape. They fit together like a jigsaw puzzle. We passed a stone quarry this afternoon, the workers’ chisels and stone axes making beautiful chinking music that wafted down the valley as we walked along.
Amazing Porters
The porters never fail to amaze me with their incredible strength. We passed two porters carrying 4 or 5 sheets of 5-ply. Each sheet was 8 feet by 4 feet. Amazing – I have trouble carrying just one and here they were taking them up the mountain. On another occasion I saw two other porters carrying what looked like verandah posts. They were 2.4 metres (8 feet) long and about 10cm by 10cm and they were each carrying 14 of these posts.
Trekking Guides
The nimble-footedness of the guides is also something that amazes me. I feel very clumsy as I plod along. They sometimes race ahead and go back to check on something and they go at three times my speed, sometimes even running. As they walk behind me making such slow progress they chatter away in Nepalese. I can hardly get enough air and they start singing or whistling. I sometimes wondered if they were having a good laugh at my expense. Never mind – I rose to the challenge and made it to the top. I did it my way – slow and steady.