Archive for September, 2006

Namche Bazar, Nepal

Namche Bazar is an interesting town in the Everest region of the Himalayas in Nepal. This town is at the junction of the main trekking track to Everest Base Camp (five days walk away) and one of the main tracks to Tibet (seven days walk away). During the mountain climbing season there is a lot of traffic through the town. We were there near the end of the trekking season, but there were still quite a number of tourists in the area.

Namche Bazar has the highest income per capita of any Nepalese village. This is mainly as a result of the trekking and mountaineering groups that move through the area. There are many lodges and shops in the town catering for this trade.

Namche Bazar is built in a natural amphitheatre in the mountains. Steep mountains surround this village and flat ground is at a premium. when I was there last January there seemed to be quite a healthy building boom. Despite the political turmoil, this area seemed far removed from the troubles in other parts of the country. Having said that, there was an army base just above the town.

For people trekking in this area, Namche Bazar is an important staging point. Many groups use this village as a stopping over point for the purposes of acclimatization. Climbing too rapidly at these altitudes can be fatal. It can also be fatal to those who know of the dangers and who live in the area. Soon after our arrival the body of a sherpa was carried past our lodge. A sobering reminder of the dangers up so high.

Related articles:

• Travels in Nepal – an archive of all my articles about Nepal.

• My photo gallery – photos of Nepal, Thailand, Australia and much more.

• Around Namche Bazar – extract from my travel journal

Near Namche Bazar, Nepal

Namche Bazar in Nepal must have one of the most rugged aspects of any place in the Himalayas. No matter which direction one turns there are magnificent mountains. On the morning hike to the ridge above the township we witnessed the sunrise on the surrounding mountain tops. The ice and snow contrasting with the beautiful sky and the harsh rock made the area downright picturesque.

There is one thing that still bugs me, months after the trek. I didn’t ask the question at the time and haven’t found the answer since. In the photo above, and in many of my other photos taken in this area, some parts of the mountains are snow and ice covered while others are quite bare of snow. This seems to be true even if the mountains are about the same height. Why? If anyone can help me, use the comments section and enlighten me.

Related articles:

• Travels in Nepal – an archive of articles about my adventures in Nepal.

• A day in Namche Bazar – excerpt from my travel journal

• Around Namche Bazar – excerpt from my travel journal.

• My photo gallery – photos of Australia, Nepal, Thailand, birds and much more.

Near Namche Bazar, Nepal

Mt Everest from Namche Bazar

On the fourth day of our trek in the Himalayas we were woken early. In the chilly first light we staggered up the ridge above Namche Bazar. It was quite a struggle after the climb of the day before.

We were warned not to point our cameras at the soldiers at the Army barricade nearby. Nepal was very tense while we were there and much fighting occured only a short time after I left. We were also told not to photograph the crashed helicopter nearby. It seems it was a very sore point with the local authorities.

From the ridge we were treated to sunrise lighting up Mt Everest. The above photo seems to show that we were quite close, but it was taken at full zoom (12x) and we were still six days walk from Everest Base Camp. Nevertheless, it was indeed a magnificent vista in all directions as the surrounding mountains were lit by the rising sun.

The photo below was taken at the same time by my daughter, just to prove I was there. It is a pity that Everest does not show up in the background; believe me – it is there!

Related articles:

• Travels in Nepal – my travel journal.

A photo of me with Everest in the background

Near Namche Bazar, Nepal

As we gained altitude on the way to Namche Bazar, the million dollar views were in your face in every direction. It was hard to decide where to point the camera. In reality though, I was disappointed on arrival back home that I didn’t take more on this particular leg of the trek. Granted, I did take far more on the way down.

The reason for not taking more photos on the third day of the trek was that I really struggled to reach Namche Bazar. The climb was unrelenting. It is quite easy to say that we climbed 600 metres on that day. The sheer physical effort needed to get up that mountain was possibly the hardest thing I had ever attempted to do. To top it all off, near the end of the leg I was aware of a blister developing on my left heel. My daughter ordered me to stop and she administered a patch to prevent it getting worse. She is usually the one to suffer from blisters and I rarely get them. How perverse – this time the situation was reversed; mind you, she always takes precautions, having suffered too many times in the past.

Despite the difficulties and pain the views were worth every agonising step and every gasp for air. On every rest stop I would stare in amazement at the views in every direction. I couldn’t believe that these mountains were so steep and so magnificent – and I was there looking at them in real life – not on a film or on television.

Related articles:

• Trekking from Monjo to Namche Bazar – my travel journal

• My photo gallery – photos of Nepal

• Travels in Nepal – archives of articles about my adventures in Nepal.

Between Monjo and Namche Bazar, Nepal

From the little village of Monjo we trekked further up the valley of the Dudh Kosi (Milk River). For the first hour or so the going was relatively easy. The river was never far from the path. Sometimes we were only metres from the roaring water and at other times we were high up looking down on the boulders and the foaming water surging around them.

Eventually we came to a very high suspension bridge. It was only when looking at my photos on my return home that I realised how high that particular bridge was above the valley. from this crossing the track then snaked its way relentlessly uphill towards Namche Bazar, our destination for that day. At this point the lack of oxygen at this altitude started to really take its toll on me. Every step was an effort and the climb seemed to be never ending. Every breath I was gasping for oxygen.

Near Namche Bazar, Nepal

I decided not to try to keep up with the younger, fitter members of the trekking group and set my own steady pace. In reality, I had little choice. My body wouldn’t go any faster. And there were no prizes for coming first.

The only way I could make it was to set a steady pace – my pace – and persevere until I reached the day’s goal, our lodge in Namche Bazar. I needed frequent rests which were good because it enabled me to take in the views. On reflection back home I wish I had taken more photos on this leg of the trek.

Related articles:

• Photo gallery

• Travels in Nepal archives

• Trekking from Monjo to Namche Bazar – my travel journal

• Trekking from Monjo to Namche Bazar part 2 – my travel journal