Archive for October, 2006

Near Namche Bazar, Nepal

On the descent from Tengboche to Namche Bazar not many of us had much of an appetite at lunch time. This is one of the side-effects of altitude. We just nibbled at our food despite it being quite delicious.

After lunch our guide gave me two options. The rest of the group were going back to Namche Bazar by another route, via the Everest View Hotel. He gave me the option of going straight back to Namche Bazar, a shorter route and with very little climbing. I chose the easier route. My feet were causing me some concern and the energy levels were drained. It was a slow, steady plod all the way back. I am not sure what the guide who accompanied me thought, but he was very patient with my slow progress and frequent stops for photos – and rest.

As it turned out, I arrived a full hour before the rest of the group.

Near Namche Bazar, Nepal

Although we were now descending towards Namche Bazar, there was another very steep climb left on the trek. After the steep descent from Tengboche there is a crossing over a suspension bridge over the river at the bottom of the valley. It is then another hard slog back to the top again. I’m convinced someone sharpened the climb in the intervening 24 hours! It seemed nowhere near as steep on the way down the day before.

Again I had to let the group go ahead. I set my own pace, steadily getting slower as the climb progressed. As we approached our lunch time destination I found the going particularly hard. It was through sheer persistence and determination that I finally made it. The legs didn’t want to be lifted up one more rock, or take one more step. One of the guides kept by me the whole time; he knew I was struggling, but he kept on encouraging me to keep going. The rest of the trekking group had almost finished their drinks by the time I arrived for lunch. So what – I made it, didn’t I? I also have the satisfaction of achieving the climb.

Ama Dablam, Nepal

On my trek in the Himalayas I did not get an exceptional view of Mt Everest. Sure, it was there sticking up above several other nearer peaks, but at no stage on the trek was it an impressive peak. Not from my perspective anyway. Despite that I was just happy to have been in the vicinity and to have seen the world’s tallest mountain up close.

Ama Dablam, nearby, however, was as spectacular as anything I have ever seen. This towering peak was prominent above us in the latter stages of the climb, and a constant reminder of the ruggedness of these mountains on the way down. We had picture perfect views from many vantage points. The weather on our descent was unbelievable.

And the photos I took are a constant reminder of the magnificence of this country.

I have a daily reminder of this great peak every time I fire up my computer. One of the shots similar to the one above is featured on my desktop. Other photos taken that day are highlighted on my screen saver programme. They are a constant reminder of the trek and the wonderful mountains of Nepal.

Mountain near Tengboche Nepal

On our way down from Tengboche the track drops rapidly to the river crossing below. While there is much less physical exertion than ascending, the descent is even more hazardous. I was aware all the way down of the need to walk extremely carefully. Any small slip or twist of the foot and one could incur a severe injury.

This part of the trek caused severe bruising to most of my toes. The pressure on the toe nails from the front of my boots as I descended the steep track caused severe bruising. This bruising did not disappear for several months after the trek. The nails took even longer to fully recover.

Despite the pain, discomfort and the need to tread carefully, the scenery more than made up for these inconveniences. Typical of the unbelievable scenery is the photo above. On my frequent rests along the way I would get out the camera. Or I would just stare. Mountains like that shownabove seem to be cut with a knife out of some gigantic cake made out of ice. Others were forlornly bare and stark rock. I could hardly comprehend the ruggedness, the steepness and the grandeur of these mighty mountains.

Related article:

• The trek down from Tengboche – extracts from my travel journal written during the trek in Nepal.