Travels in Nepal # 68 Troubles in Nepal
Bombings in Kathmandu
When we returned to the hotel after our ox cart ride we found out that the political situation had worsened overnight. There had been several bombings in Kathmandu and elsewhere and some police or soldiers had been killed. At 1pm the manager drove us to Bharatpur Airport but told us there were no flights today due to the fog. He went there to arrange for a driver to take us to Kathmandu. We drove through several army checkpoints along the way. The people were getting a little tense about the situation and the manager, although calm, seemed to be very cautious.
Another night at Chitwan
On arrival at the airport there were no drivers willing to take us to Kathmandu because of the trouble. We found out that the normally four hour drive had now slowed down to become at least six hours with long waits at an army checkpoint near the capital. Kane spoke on the phone to a Peregrine official in Kathmandu who really gave us no choice. (Peregrine Adventures were our travel agents.) There were no flights that day and no reservations for us in the coming days. Kane and Jade needed to be in Kathmandu two days later to catch their flight to India. Added to that there were no drivers willing to take us to the capital. We had to return to the Royal Park Hotel for another night, at Peregrine’s expense I might add.
Concerns
This situation concerned me but I was not worried. It reinforced my decision not to try to get to Tansen as I had originally planned. Bhairawa airport had also been fogged in and had been closed for several days. The fog did not look like disappearing; it was so calm. It would also have been very risky trying to get to Tansen by road, not to mention expensive, if one could get a driver. Then there would have been the difficulty of returning in time for my flight home. My only other options were to wait until Sunday in Kathmandu, or try to arrange an earlier flight home.
Anything could happen
The manager had promised to take us to Bharatpur the next morning, leaving at 6am. If there were no drivers there willing to take us, he promised to personally drive us there. The downside of this was the vehicle, an old short wheel base Land Rover. The road was very bumpy and the seats barely cushioned. Going early may avoid much of the traffic but not the pot holes, twists and turns. All through the drive that afternoon I kept watching out the back window. I expected to see one of our bags bouncing around on the road. They were just put on the pack rack on top with nothing holding them in place. A potential positive about driving to Kathmandu is the fact that, being tourists, we may be given a quick passage through any checkpoints – theoretically. In the current political climate this was only a theory. Anything could happen.
Travels in Nepal # 67 Rural Life in Southern Nepal
Rural scene near Chitwan
On our ox cart ride through the rural area near Chitwan National Park in southern Nepal we were able to get a close up view of life in the raw. The houses were basic with few facilities, though I did notice quite a few houses had electricity and television. I was somewhat amused to see that, on average, every third or fourth house boasted a sign advertising that the occupants offered both STD and ISD telephone services available.
During the ride we stopped for a while to visit a local historical museum. This gave a very good picture of life in rural Nepal in years gone by and gave a good appreciation of the heritage of the local people. We also saw some well dressed children in their uniforms heading off to the local school. Our guide told us that only the privileged few went to school. Many farmers are not rich; they rent from the wealthy land owners. Only the well to do are able to send their children to school. This is the general picture throughout Nepal; only the well off can afford to send their children to school. This accounts for a literacy rate of about thirty percent, and far less in rural areas.
Most farmers also rely heavily on animals on their small farms. The move the mechanical help, as in the tractor in the photo below, is slowly becoming common. It was the dry season when I was in this area so we didn’t see much being grown in the fields.
Despite the very foggy conditions well into the day, I was able to identify a few more birds during our ox cart ride. Our guide, a professional birding guide, was able to help me greatly in this.
Related article:
- Rural life in Nepal – taken from my travel journal written during my travels.
Rural scene near Chitwan
Travels in Nepal # 66 Ox Cart Ride
Ox cart ride in rural Nepal
After our fairly unsuccessful birding activities we walked a short distance to meet one of the local farmers. He had been organised to give us a two hour ox cart ride through the local farming areas. The fog was still quite thick and this did not make photography easy. In fact, I took very few photos on this morning. Despite the fog the journey through the farming area near Chitwan was very interesting.
The farms here a generally quite small and grow a variety of things, mainly vegetables. The farm houses are small and very basic when compared to what we are used to in Australia. Every farmyard seems to have a large collection of cattle, goats, dogs, ducks and chickens. We passed many of the women and children squatting around smoky fires in the farmyard.
Rural scene near Chitwan
Travels in Nepal # 65 An Early Morning Birding Walk
Baby elephant
Next morning we were up early to go on a birding walk straight after breakfast. When our guide found out I was really interested in birding he made this special arrangement for us. On this occasion I was rather doubtful whether we would actually see anything, let alone some birds. The foggy conditions had worsened over night and visibility was down to about thirty metres at best.
Soon after leaving the hotel grounds we visited the Royal Chitwan National Park headquarters where I did manage to see and identify several species of birds new to me. Actually, Kamal, our guide, identified them for me. I could barely see them in the fog.
A little distance on we visited another elephant enclosure complete with several baby elephants. While the mothers were still tied up the babies were free to roam. One of them took a liking to us and in his curiosity he sniffed all over us. My coat still had baby elephant slobber on it when it was washed back home several weeks later.
Jade, the woman shown in the photo, wanted to take this little elephant home to Darwin with her. They are rather endearing at this age, I must admit.
How does one smuggle a baby elephant back to Australia? In your trunk, of course.
Travels in Nepal # 64 Crossing the Rapti River
Canoe crossing on the Rapti River, Nepal
After our visit to the Elephant Breeding Centre at Chitwan National Park we had to cross the Rapti River in a dug out canoe. The river was relatively shallow at this point but the water was flowing quite quickly. The canoe operator had to use all his skills to get us across without too much drama.
As you can see in the photo above the evening was still quite foggy and misty. The setting sun over the river gave a lovely effect I think. At dusk that night we were treated to some traditional Nepalese dancing in the gardens of the hotel. This dancing was accompanied by some very enthusiastic drummers. After this cultural display we were treated to a traditional Nepalese meal in the dining room. This was rice and dhaal bart, spicy chicken and vegetables followed by fried banana. It was all delicious.
Elephant Breeding Centre, Nepal