Life in a Cold Climate
Monday 9th January 2006.
Trek Day 7 Namche to Phakding
I have been delighted with so many children saying “hello†or “namaste†as we go past. Rose even heard one child say “thankyou†in Japanese. I guess there are so many Japanese trekkers that they pick up such words very readily.
Heating in a Cold Climate
Heating is a problem in this region. Even in the better lodges like we’ve been using they only light the fire late in the afternoon. Right now as I sit in the dining room at Phakding I feel very cold despite thermal underwear and my very warm Polartek jacket. There are windows all around but the sun went down behind the nearest mountain an hour ago. It is now 4:45pm.
Icicles
The outside air must be about 5 degrees. Just up the hill from out lodge is a leaking pipe spraying water into the air. The spray is falling on to several trees just below and then freezes. It looks quite picturesque with icicles dangling from the trees like bizarre Christmas tree decorations. This is indicative of the air temperature outside. (Postscript: I took several lovely photos of these icicles during breakfast next morning.) Many sections of the path we used today have rivulets of water trickling over them; they appear to be permanently frozen. Several creeks we crossed also had ice around the rocks.
Snapshots of Life in Nepal
Monday 9th January 2006.
Trek Day 7 Namche to Phakding
Because there was quite a deal of level or easier going today, I was able to take in more of the atmosphere and culture of the area. The hardship of living in such a climate is astounding. How do they cope with the cold, with thin walls, no insulation and poor heating? The temperatures would rarely go above 8 – 12 degrees. Everything is done by hand; there are few tools in this area and those they do have are basic hand operated with no power tools. I did hear a power saw and saw an angle grinder in Namche, but then the people there are better off financially. The power supply is also more reliable.
Washing Clothes
Washing clothes is a major issue here. Things take so long to dry in the thin atmosphere. They seem to have few clothes lines. The only one I have seen on the trek was at the back of the lodge in Monjo. They just hang things over the numerous stone fences or drape them on the roof of their house. This afternoon I saw a four year old throw a dozen or so socks up on the roof. He then scampered up on the roof on a four inch wide plank to spread out the socks on the roof.
Life in your face
Numerous times I have seen people washing themselves, especially their hair, right outside their front door. Now this also happens to be the main “street†through the village. There is no privacy for many people. Their front door opens straight on to the path used by by hundreds of porters and trekkers daily. Rarely is the street more than three metres wide. While walking along I often felt that I was intruding on their private lives. Life is in your face wherever you go.
Trekking towards Phakding, Nepal
Monday 9th January 2006.
Trek Day 7 Namche to Phakding
We left at 9am and came down steeply the 600 metres to the suspension bridge over the river in the valley below. It was a slow, steady descent but we had to be careful not to slip on the rocks, gravel or loose dirt. While not as exhausting as climbing it was still very demanding, needing great concentration.
Step Carefully
At one point there was a small stream trickling over the path. This seemed to be almost permanently frozen. I stepped very carefully but still slipped. One of the guides behind me caught me on my way down so no damage was done. My legs were a little shaky for the next ten minutes or so.
Easier Walking
For the rest of the day the walking was much easier than higher up in the mountains. There were some challenging stretches with steep short climbs. There were also long, fairly level stretches too. I was pleased on these sections to stretch out my stride a little. The further we went the more I felt tired. Towards the end of the day’s walk it became just a matter of one step after another. It was just one more lesson in perseverance. At these lower altitudes, however, the breathing is much easier, but I still got breathless at any little climb that was needed.
Lunch at Monjo
We walked for two and a half hours down to Monjo for lunch. This section had taken us an hour longer on the way up. After an hour’s rest over a very welcome meal we continued on for another two hours, reaching Phakding by 2:30pm. The whole day’s walk had taken four and a half hours. On the way up it had taken six and a half hours over two days. We’ve now trekked for 29 hours over 7 days. One day of about three hours left to go. My poor abused feet can’t wait for some respite.
Trekking down from Namche Bazar
Monday 9th January 2006.
 Trek Day 7 Namche to Phakding, Nepal
 Wedding Anniversary
Today is January 9th and it is our 35th Wedding Anniversary. I am nearly half a world away from Corinne. From memory, this is the first time we have been apart for our anniversary. She has been much in my thoughts today. I spent a lot of time while walking today planning something special for her birthday and a belated anniversary celebration.
 Prayer Flags
As I walked along today I spent a lot of time in prayer for family and friends. There are many prayer flags spread all over the villages and nearby hillsides here in Nepal. We have no such reminders in Australia; perhaps we should be far more expressive of our faith in a visible way.
 Dusty Himalayas
I had a good night’s sleep until about 4am when I started coughing. This might be a result of all of the dust in this part of the mountains. The dirt on the tracks is powdery dry and even gentle walking raises clouds of dust. Yak trains cause quite a dust storm as they pass. Today I used a hanky to cover my mouth and nose. Rose slept in another room and one room removed from me. Consequently, she had a really good night’s sleep without my snoring. She is feeling much better for it today.
 Long Walk
Today we faced a long walk, from Namche down to Phakding. On the way up we did this stretch in two days. On the way down, however, we didn’t need to acclimatise. It also gets us at least two hours closer to Lukla meaning tomorrow will be a relatively short walk.
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The trek down from Tengboche, Nepal
Sunday 8th January 2006.
Trek Day 6: Tengboche to Namche Bazar
At 9am we started the walk back towards Namche. It was very slow going downhill to the river crossing. It wasn’t quite as slow as going up, but one has to be extra careful going downhill. It would be very easy to sustain a bad injury. After crossing back over the river we had a 400 metre climb back out of the valley again. I found this just as demanding as yesterday’s climb to Tengboche. Fortunately it was not as long. I took it very slowly and rested frequently to get some oxygen into my system.
He called me Pappie
At the top of the climb we stopped at a lodge for lunch. Again the tea and soup was very welcome but the main course I only nibbled at. Others in the group also lacked an appetite. Ananta (our guide) planned to take an alternative, longer route back to Namche but he gave me the option of heading straight back to our lodge there. This was the direct route back, the one we used yesterday and far easier and shorter than the alternative it turned out. The rest of the group went back via the Everest View Hotel and another village in that area. I was escorted by one of the guides, the one who called me “Pappie†when he found out that Rose was my daughter. I arrived back about an hour before the rest of the group staggered into the dining room. I was able to set up my room, wash and change before they had arrived.
OUCH
When I changed my shoes and socks I was rather concerned about the state of my feet. I have managed to keep going but the blisters are very sore. One small toenail looks very bruised and sore to touch. This injury must have been caused by the steep gradient when going downhill, I guess.
Longing for the Comforts of Home
Tomorrow we go steeply downhill again to the river crossing, then follow the river back towards Monjo. We won’t stay there for the night but will press on to Phakding where we stayed the first night. It will then be a relatively easy three hours back to Lukla where we will stay the night before flying back to Kathmandu. Up to today I have walked for 24 and a half hours over six days. Just eight hours to go. I can’t wait for decent toilets, showers and bed in the Shangri La Hotel in Kathmandu. I’m convinced that I’m too soft and like the comforts of home too much.
Our Nightly Entertainment
One of the fascinating things about the trek has been the camaraderie amongst the trekkers, the guides and the Sherpas. We don’t spend any time with the porters as they usually head off ahead of us. Apart from Rose and myself there is Russell, a classical guitarist from London. He currently works in the office of a fashion design house. He has made recordings of his playing for his own use. He and Ananta have entertained us with their guitar playing every evening along the way. Each lodge has its own guitar. Russell has played a variety of classical and jazz pieces, some he has written himself. Ananta has a broad repertoire, including a wide knowledge of Beatles songs. He taught himself to play with lessons accessed over the internet. He also sings along to his own playing.
Members of Our Trekking Group
Linda, perhaps a few years younger than me (I haven’t asked her), is from Horsham Victoria. She is accompanying Jenny, her daughter and Jen’s partner James who are both currently working in London. Then there is Jade and Kane from Darwin. Kane is a builder and his wife Jade is a high school teacher of Maths and Science. She is a few months pregnant and has really struggled with the food and with morning sickness.
The last member of the group is Kath from Melbourne. She is a trained nurse who recently changed jobs and is contracted to do Enterprise Bargaining Agreements for different organisations. She is by far the “life of the party†type person who tries to keep spirits up. While I get along well with her, I can imagine that over time I could only take her in small doses.
After the trek I will be going to Chitwan with Kane and Jade and that will be good for companionship. I get along quite well with them. Apart from a few annoying little things, overall the group is very easy to get along with. There has been very little swearing and that is a pleasant aspect of the trek.
Rose has just arrived back from looking at the shopping area here in Namche. She bought me a Mars Bar and a bottle of Sprite. The Mars Bar was very enjoyable. Bless her.