Trekking towards Phakding, Nepal
Monday 9th January 2006.
Trek Day 7 Namche to Phakding
We left at 9am and came down steeply the 600 metres to the suspension bridge over the river in the valley below. It was a slow, steady descent but we had to be careful not to slip on the rocks, gravel or loose dirt. While not as exhausting as climbing it was still very demanding, needing great concentration.
Step Carefully
At one point there was a small stream trickling over the path. This seemed to be almost permanently frozen. I stepped very carefully but still slipped. One of the guides behind me caught me on my way down so no damage was done. My legs were a little shaky for the next ten minutes or so.
Easier Walking
For the rest of the day the walking was much easier than higher up in the mountains. There were some challenging stretches with steep short climbs. There were also long, fairly level stretches too. I was pleased on these sections to stretch out my stride a little. The further we went the more I felt tired. Towards the end of the day’s walk it became just a matter of one step after another. It was just one more lesson in perseverance. At these lower altitudes, however, the breathing is much easier, but I still got breathless at any little climb that was needed.
Lunch at Monjo
We walked for two and a half hours down to Monjo for lunch. This section had taken us an hour longer on the way up. After an hour’s rest over a very welcome meal we continued on for another two hours, reaching Phakding by 2:30pm. The whole day’s walk had taken four and a half hours. On the way up it had taken six and a half hours over two days. We’ve now trekked for 29 hours over 7 days. One day of about three hours left to go. My poor abused feet can’t wait for some respite.
Trekking down from Namche Bazar
Monday 9th January 2006.
 Trek Day 7 Namche to Phakding, Nepal
 Wedding Anniversary
Today is January 9th and it is our 35th Wedding Anniversary. I am nearly half a world away from Corinne. From memory, this is the first time we have been apart for our anniversary. She has been much in my thoughts today. I spent a lot of time while walking today planning something special for her birthday and a belated anniversary celebration.
 Prayer Flags
As I walked along today I spent a lot of time in prayer for family and friends. There are many prayer flags spread all over the villages and nearby hillsides here in Nepal. We have no such reminders in Australia; perhaps we should be far more expressive of our faith in a visible way.
 Dusty Himalayas
I had a good night’s sleep until about 4am when I started coughing. This might be a result of all of the dust in this part of the mountains. The dirt on the tracks is powdery dry and even gentle walking raises clouds of dust. Yak trains cause quite a dust storm as they pass. Today I used a hanky to cover my mouth and nose. Rose slept in another room and one room removed from me. Consequently, she had a really good night’s sleep without my snoring. She is feeling much better for it today.
 Long Walk
Today we faced a long walk, from Namche down to Phakding. On the way up we did this stretch in two days. On the way down, however, we didn’t need to acclimatise. It also gets us at least two hours closer to Lukla meaning tomorrow will be a relatively short walk.
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The trek down from Tengboche, Nepal
Sunday 8th January 2006.
Trek Day 6: Tengboche to Namche Bazar
At 9am we started the walk back towards Namche. It was very slow going downhill to the river crossing. It wasn’t quite as slow as going up, but one has to be extra careful going downhill. It would be very easy to sustain a bad injury. After crossing back over the river we had a 400 metre climb back out of the valley again. I found this just as demanding as yesterday’s climb to Tengboche. Fortunately it was not as long. I took it very slowly and rested frequently to get some oxygen into my system.
He called me Pappie
At the top of the climb we stopped at a lodge for lunch. Again the tea and soup was very welcome but the main course I only nibbled at. Others in the group also lacked an appetite. Ananta (our guide) planned to take an alternative, longer route back to Namche but he gave me the option of heading straight back to our lodge there. This was the direct route back, the one we used yesterday and far easier and shorter than the alternative it turned out. The rest of the group went back via the Everest View Hotel and another village in that area. I was escorted by one of the guides, the one who called me “Pappie†when he found out that Rose was my daughter. I arrived back about an hour before the rest of the group staggered into the dining room. I was able to set up my room, wash and change before they had arrived.
OUCH
When I changed my shoes and socks I was rather concerned about the state of my feet. I have managed to keep going but the blisters are very sore. One small toenail looks very bruised and sore to touch. This injury must have been caused by the steep gradient when going downhill, I guess.
Longing for the Comforts of Home
Tomorrow we go steeply downhill again to the river crossing, then follow the river back towards Monjo. We won’t stay there for the night but will press on to Phakding where we stayed the first night. It will then be a relatively easy three hours back to Lukla where we will stay the night before flying back to Kathmandu. Up to today I have walked for 24 and a half hours over six days. Just eight hours to go. I can’t wait for decent toilets, showers and bed in the Shangri La Hotel in Kathmandu. I’m convinced that I’m too soft and like the comforts of home too much.
Our Nightly Entertainment
One of the fascinating things about the trek has been the camaraderie amongst the trekkers, the guides and the Sherpas. We don’t spend any time with the porters as they usually head off ahead of us. Apart from Rose and myself there is Russell, a classical guitarist from London. He currently works in the office of a fashion design house. He has made recordings of his playing for his own use. He and Ananta have entertained us with their guitar playing every evening along the way. Each lodge has its own guitar. Russell has played a variety of classical and jazz pieces, some he has written himself. Ananta has a broad repertoire, including a wide knowledge of Beatles songs. He taught himself to play with lessons accessed over the internet. He also sings along to his own playing.
Members of Our Trekking Group
Linda, perhaps a few years younger than me (I haven’t asked her), is from Horsham Victoria. She is accompanying Jenny, her daughter and Jen’s partner James who are both currently working in London. Then there is Jade and Kane from Darwin. Kane is a builder and his wife Jade is a high school teacher of Maths and Science. She is a few months pregnant and has really struggled with the food and with morning sickness.
The last member of the group is Kath from Melbourne. She is a trained nurse who recently changed jobs and is contracted to do Enterprise Bargaining Agreements for different organisations. She is by far the “life of the party†type person who tries to keep spirits up. While I get along well with her, I can imagine that over time I could only take her in small doses.
After the trek I will be going to Chitwan with Kane and Jade and that will be good for companionship. I get along quite well with them. Apart from a few annoying little things, overall the group is very easy to get along with. There has been very little swearing and that is a pleasant aspect of the trek.
Rose has just arrived back from looking at the shopping area here in Namche. She bought me a Mars Bar and a bottle of Sprite. The Mars Bar was very enjoyable. Bless her.
Tengboche to Namche Bazar, Nepal
Sunday 8th January 2006.
Trek Day 6: Tengboche to Namche Bazar
Last night I went to bed very early at 8pm. I was feeling a little better than earlier. It was getting very cold so I put on my thermal underwear before snuggling into my sleeping bag. I was feeling very cosy and Ananta (our guide) came into my room a few minutes later to check up on me. He gave me some advice about what to do if I felt any discomfort during the night. He emphasised that I could wake him if I needed assistance at any time. He woke me again at about midnight to check on how I was going. I think that I had about six hours good sleep during the night, despite it being extremely cold. Unfortunately Rose did not sleep at all well. I guess I snored a bit. She also said later that she was listening to see if I was still breathing. I guess I worried her quite a deal.
Arise for the Sunrise
We were woken at 6:30am to witness the sunrise again. After that we walked over to the nearby Visitor Centre but there was no-one available to open it for us. The early morning air was very crisp, probably around minus 5 degrees I thought. Certainly colder than a frosty morning home in Murray Bridge (South Australia). A warm fire in the dining room at breakfast time was most attractive.
Group Photo
After breakfast we all lined up for a group photograph with Everest in the background. The chill factor in the wind made this an uncomfortable time. It seemed to take forever because there were so many cameras to get through.
Last night the Sherpas and porters had made a special banner celebrating our achievement. They hung it in the dining room for us to photograph.
Avalanche!
Saturday 7th January 2006.
Trek day 5: Namche Bazar to Tengboche
As we neared Tengboche we heard a loud rumble.
Avalanche!
A huge avalanche of snow and ice, perhaps 400 metres wide, thundered down the valley opposite us. We were in no danger whatsoever. We stopped in awe and wonderment, excited by this spectacular display of the powerful forces of nature unleashed in a split second. Despite this we all had the presence of mind to take some excellent photos.
Snow and Dust
The snow start billowing up several hundreds of metres, whipped up by the wind. Soon we were walking in dust around our feet from the path and with snow flakes swirling around our heads from the avalanche. Bizarre! It only lasted a few minutes. Ten minutes later we heard another, smaller avalanche. Amazing! I never even thought about the possibility of an avalanche, and here, we had seen two in the space of ten minutes.
Test of Endurance
In the morning I knew that this walk would take about six hours, the average time for most trekkers. I set a goal of doing it in seven hours. I managed to do it in five and half hours, so I felt a good sense of achievement. Despite that, I acknowledge that I was way beyond what I thought was my level of endurance physically. I was way beyond what I thought I could achieve. On arrival I felt very distressed. Ananta (our guide) gave me some medication, a diuretic tablet, as well as plenty of hot liquids. The hot lemon is very refreshing. After about two hours I had recovered except for some discomfort due to stomach cramps.
I DID IT
The view around here simply awesome with 6000 metre+ peaks all around. The view of Mt Everest shows only the top of the peak. Despite the relatively poor view of Everest, it seems incredible that we are only about 20km from it. We are still at least five days walk from Base Camp. It seems impossible that I have reached this far, and so close to the “Top of the World.†The dreams and aspirations of so many years have, in part, been realised today. I think, on reflection, my distress was in reality total relief that I had made it.
I did it.
I achieved the highest point on this particular trek. The enormity of what I have achieved has not yet fully sunk in. It may take weeks.
Buddhist Monastry
At 4pm the rest of the trekking group went to the nearby monastery to watch the afternoon prayers. This is a Buddhist monastery which is the predominant religion in this region. I found it interesting that so many make a long pilgrimage to this place. Many coming from India for example, would have to travel for two to three weeks, much of it on foot. A sign in the dining room of our lodge is thought provoking: “Prayer is the pillar of religion and the key to paradise.â€
Pilgrimage
I was not on a religious pilgrimage as such. Rather, it turned out to be something of a journey of personal discovery. I discovered that I was capable of achieving something way beyond what I had ever imagined. I discovered the true meaning of perseverance. And I also discovered that travel agents’ brochures not only look glossy, their descriptions are also very “glossy”, that is, they gloss over the hard bits.