Trekking from Monjo to Namche Bazar
Thursday 5th January 2006.
Trek day 3: Monjo to Namche Bazar.
I had a reasonable night’s sleep despite fighting my sleeping bag again. It is very cosy and warm enough but I find movement in the bag to be very restrictive. Over the last ten years or so I have been spoiled by always sleeping in a queen size bed. Even when we have been camping in recent times we have used sheets and blankets rather than sleeping bags. Our most recent sleeping bag was a double anyway, so extra movement is possible.
Tough Trek
Today’s walk promised to be the toughest so far. The scheduled time was four hours but it was mostly uphill at a very demanding gradient. At breakfast I had to force myself to eat to build up necessary energy for the day’s effort. The horrible feeling of dread I felt this morning can be compared to the anxiety I sometimes feel in the dentist’s waiting room. You know that it’s going to hurt at some stage and you want it to be all over and finished.
The track was quite level for the first half hour as it followed just above the Dudh Kosi, or Milk River. The constant white foam as the water cascades over thousands of rocks and boulders gives the water a milky colour. There were a few sections of climbing or dropping back down but the overall going was moderate. There were even some opportunities to take in the views, though this had to be done very carefully to avoid tripping or falling. My blistered feet did not give too much pain until near to Namche when I was aware of a new blister on my left heel.
Magnificent Mountains
The paths here are sometimes smooth gravel surfaces gently going up or down, rarely level. On these one can stretch out the pace and not have to worry about falling. On these occasions one can look around at the scenery, or take in the intricate details of the village houses, or marvel at the sheer magnitude of the mountains surrounding you, like some towering giant hovering overhead. Just when you think the going is really pleasant, a sharp rise will bring you back to reality.
Sometimes the rocks have been placed to make easy stepping stones or a rock-formed staircase. Most of the time one has to pick your way carefully over a jumble of loose rocks, trying to find the easiest path and always being aware of potentially twisting an ankle – or worse. This makes going downhill sometimes even more treacherous than going uphill.
Trekking from Phakding to Monjo, Nepal
Day 4: Wednesday 4th January 2006.
Phakding to Monjo
I didn’t get much sleep during the night. I was quite warm all night and didn’t need to wear my thermals. I just couldn’t get comfortable. I can’t spread out in the sleeping bag like I am used to doing in a bed. When I try to lie on my side my hips dig into the firm bed base because the mattress is virtually useless. Lying on one’s back is not much better as the mattress gives very little protection. Added to all that was the effect of altitude. This resulted in breathlessness at times.
Before breakfast we were delivered a cup of tea and a basin of hot water for washing. For breakfast we had a choice of porridge or muesli followed by toast and eggs. Another cup of tea saw us ready for the next stage of the trek.
More Suspension Bridges
Today we walked to Monjo village crossing several more suspension bridges. We generally followed the river high up on the hill side, occasionally dipping down to cross the river. Although we only gained about 200 metres in altitude today I found the going quite demanding, especially the last 500 metres or so to the lodge. This section was quite steep. I am pleased that my legs are coping very well but I have blisters on my corns on each foot. My major concern is my breathing; every breath I seem to be gasping for air. I keep reminding myself to go slowly.
School Visit
After lunch in the lodge we visited a Buddhist monastery and school. Several of the local boys joined us in a game of cricket which is very popular here in Nepal. Several of them were very good. I didn’t join in because I was very tired and I didn’t want to risk an injury. Sitting in the lovely sun was far more attractive. I took several photos of the playground with the towering snow-capped mountains as the backdrop. Imagine doing yard duty here. The only problem was getting here, and getting about, and everything is on foot. The school buildings were very basic but nicely kept. Ananta (our guide) told us that the children walk long distances from nearby villages to attend school.
Trekking from Lukla to Phakding part 2
Day 3: Tuesday 3rd January 2006
Birding in Nepal
Along the way I only observed three species of birds. There were House Sparrows at Lukla as well as Common Ravens all along the way. I identified Chestnut Thrush on a fence post just before we arrived at the lodge. This is another new species for me.
Yak Trains
Along the way we passed a number of yak trains. These animals were taking goods along the track. They are quite a bit smaller than I had anticipated with their heads not even coming up to my shoulder. We also passed many houses and lodges along the way as we passed through each small village on the route. The small farms near the villages grow a variety of fruits and vegetables, including potatoes, spinach, cabbage, silver beet, carrots and apples. Every small patch of earth is utilised to grow food. All cultivation is by hand.
Along the way I noticed a small nursery growing trees, each plastic tube holding a 5cm silver fir tree. There is no evidence to my eye of deforestation but it must be a problem keeping up with wood for heating and cooking. Tourism just adds to this pressure. The village we are staying in tonight actually has its own hydro-electric generator.
Suspension Bridges
During the walk today we crossed over two suspension bridges. One was about 30 metres long and the other was about 80 metres in length. There was plenty room to pass other people coming the other way. Passing a yak train on a bridge is not recommended, though I did get caught doing this once without any major hassle. Crossing the bridges did not cause me any hassles either. I thought I might have a problem. For me, the secret was to keep moving with the eyes firmly fixed ahead, not looking down too much.
Trekking from Lukla to Phakding
Day 3: Tuesday January 3rd 2006
The Start of our Trek in Nepal
After two cups of tea in the Peregrine lodge near the airstrip we set off on the first leg of the trek to the village of Phakding. This took three hours and ten minutes and went steadily downhill for much of the way. Lukla is at an altitude of 2886 metres (9500 feet) but Phakding is lower at 2640 metres. At one point near the river one is even lower and there is about a 100 metre climb up to the village.
Hitting the Wall
This last part was the first real test of climbing at altitude. I did remarkably well until dropping to the rear of the group for the last 30 minutes. I felt that I “hit the wall†about ten minutes from the lodge but pushed on through. Two cups of tea and a lunch of spinach and potato were much appreciated. After lunch we were allocated our rooms. We have a million dollar view from our humble room.
Introduction to Toilets in Nepal
Our room has two single beds with very thin mattresses and room for our bags on the floor. We were pleased to have a flushing toilet just five steps from our room. Along the way we had to use a very smelly squat toilet. That’s fine for the men but not as pleasant for the ladies.
Great Weather
The weather has been magnificent with a bright blue sky and a temperature of about 17 degrees. There has been enough breeze to cool our sweaty bodies. Sunscreen will be essential in the thinner air here.
Landing at Lukla Airport, Nepal
Day 3: Tuesday 3rd January 2006.
Landing at Lukla
The approach to Lukla airport is exciting and somewhat unnerving. The approach is down a steep sided valley for about ten minutes. The final approach technique is to do a sharp left hand turn and DIVE at a steep angle straight at a cliff, or so it seems at first. The screaming engines roar their protest, a sound reminiscent of diving planes in all those old WW2 movies. The plane levels out, touches down and suddenly comes to a halt. One has landed; spontaneous applause from all on board.
Lukla Airstrip
The Lukla airstrip is amazing. It was built in the 1960s under instructions from Sir Edmund Hillary. When landing or taking off there is no room for error. It is 351 metres long (1150 feet) and rises over 100 feet (30 metres) from the bottom to the top, giving it an angle of about 10 degrees. (Compare this with the road above the Heysen Tunnels in the Adelaide Hills at 7 degrees.)
Exhilarating Stuff
The airstrip was built by hand by several hundred Sherpas, the final preparation for the first flight was done by them all linking arms and dancing on the surface for several days in order to pound down the bare earth. It worked, but today it is an asphalt strip. The sudden stop is very necessary; there is a sheer rock face reaching several hundred metres upwards at the end! The plane taxis to a stop and turns on to a 50m x 50m tarmac. Taking off is just as hazardous; it is then a downhill slope. The planes become airborne only metres from the end, with a 600 metre drop to the valley below. Exhilarating stuff!
Sherpas Move the Immovable
When I returned home I did some extra research on the topic of the airport. Some of that information is included in the above paragraph. I discovered one interesting fact about its construction. Edmund Hillary was not happy with the compactness of the earth, so he gathered all the Sherpas used in the construction and asked them to do a celebration dance – for 2 days! The constant pounding of their feet did the trick, but they were tired of dancing by the end of the second day. They also had a number of immoveable boulders in the way. The solution was easy; they just dug large holes under the boulders, pushed them into the holes and covered them with earth.
Further reading