Trek from Phakding to Lukla, Nepal
Tuesday 10th January 2006.
Trek Day 8: Phakding to Lukla
Some of the trekking group stayed up until 10pm last night singing and dancing in the small dining room. At 8pm I was so tired I just had to head off to bed early. I fell asleep almost immediately and was only vaguely aware of Rose coming to bed later. I slept soundly all night only waking a few times to roll over and in so doing resting the bruised spot on each hip. The almost non-existent mattresses are real hip bruisers. I was pleased to get some good sleep because it was extremely cold. I usually do not like using the hood of a sleeping bag, but over the last three nights I have had to use it.
Pool Games
Before dinner last night I played pool in the pool room of the lodge. They have a regular sized pool table as well as a large size snooker table. They weren’t carried up to the lodge in one piece but were rather taken up in pieces and assembled inside the pool room.
Room Service
This morning we were able to sleep in until woken at 8am with the usual cup of tea delivered to our room. This is very nice and I am getting used to the room service. We had breakfast at 9 o’clock and were on our way again by 9:30am.
The track back to Lukla is fairly level for much of the way until the last climb up to Lukla which is about 200 metres and takes about an hour. Nothing here is measured in distance. It is always in hours or days for the longer trips. We arrived at about midday after two and a half hours walking. We all had a drink before lunch. I am really getting used to the hot lemon drink they serve as a beverage.
Lukla, Nepal
The town of Lukla is quite prosperous looking, probably as a result of the trekkers. There are many lodges and hotels here too. I guess many tourists fly in here for a few days without going on an extended trek. It is quite a good destination to just get a taste of the mountains and their amazing grandeur. The track to our lodge goes down the main street. There is a wide range of things available for sale, but prices tend to be cheaper in Kathmandu. I noticed quite a few places offered STD and ISD connections as well as internet availability.
Lukla Numbur Hotel
Our lodge is the Peregrine preferred one called the Lukla Numbur Hotel. Compared to those on the trek it is very nice. The bed mattresses are four inch foam and have quilt with beautiful designs on them. (They were so lovely I took a photo). The rooms are more spacious and have an en suite! After lunch many of us enjoyed a long shower. Some in the group did not get any hot water. They are solar heated so I guess too much demand was placed on the water supply.
Farewell to our Porters
Our room here has a westerly aspect so it is lovely and warm right now at 4:20pm. We were outside at 3pm for the presentations to the porters and the sherpas and the air was quite chilly, especially in the shade. On the last day we are expected to give a tip to the sherpas and porters. This includes a monetary tip plus a gift of any excess clothing, water bottles and so on. I gave a total of about $30 Australian which is about $10 more than what is expected. I did this for two reasons. Firstly, they really looked after me when I struggled. Secondly, I had no other items to donate. The clothing I bought in Australia was so expensive I was very reluctant to part with it.
Security at Lukla
As we entered Lukla we were very aware of the police numbers (blue uniforms) and strong army presence (green uniforms). There were also quite a few police last night at Phakding. The airport here at Lukla is particularly well garrisoned. Several bunkers overlook our hotel which is right next to the airport. Before lunch I took a few photos of the surrounding mountains but I was careful not to aim my camera at the soldiers. There is no sense in tempting trouble.
A poignant reminder
While we were waiting for lunch Ananta and James started playing cricket in the hotel garden. The ball went over the fence and was rescued by a young boy who would have loved to have joined in the game, I’m sure. He watched them through the razor wire surrounding our hotel. I carefully took a photo of him. It will be a poignant reminder of the current political unrest in this country. I was careful not to include the bunker only a few feet above his head. Zoom lenses are great in situations like that.
My appetite returns
Lunch today was great. I’m getting my appetite back again. My nose is also improving. Blowing blood clots is quite normal when trekking. Fortunately there was not as much dust today. My major concern is my feet. They are bruised, sore and blistered. The blister on my left heel burst today and has been left raw and very sore over an area about the size of a ten cent coin. I asked Ananta to bandage it. Kath also gave me some extra bandaging for it. I will try to get some extra things in Kathmandu for it. My toe nails are also very battered and bruised.
The trek down from Tengboche, Nepal
Sunday 8th January 2006.
Trek Day 6: Tengboche to Namche Bazar
At 9am we started the walk back towards Namche. It was very slow going downhill to the river crossing. It wasn’t quite as slow as going up, but one has to be extra careful going downhill. It would be very easy to sustain a bad injury. After crossing back over the river we had a 400 metre climb back out of the valley again. I found this just as demanding as yesterday’s climb to Tengboche. Fortunately it was not as long. I took it very slowly and rested frequently to get some oxygen into my system.
He called me Pappie
At the top of the climb we stopped at a lodge for lunch. Again the tea and soup was very welcome but the main course I only nibbled at. Others in the group also lacked an appetite. Ananta (our guide) planned to take an alternative, longer route back to Namche but he gave me the option of heading straight back to our lodge there. This was the direct route back, the one we used yesterday and far easier and shorter than the alternative it turned out. The rest of the group went back via the Everest View Hotel and another village in that area. I was escorted by one of the guides, the one who called me “Pappie†when he found out that Rose was my daughter. I arrived back about an hour before the rest of the group staggered into the dining room. I was able to set up my room, wash and change before they had arrived.
OUCH
When I changed my shoes and socks I was rather concerned about the state of my feet. I have managed to keep going but the blisters are very sore. One small toenail looks very bruised and sore to touch. This injury must have been caused by the steep gradient when going downhill, I guess.
Longing for the Comforts of Home
Tomorrow we go steeply downhill again to the river crossing, then follow the river back towards Monjo. We won’t stay there for the night but will press on to Phakding where we stayed the first night. It will then be a relatively easy three hours back to Lukla where we will stay the night before flying back to Kathmandu. Up to today I have walked for 24 and a half hours over six days. Just eight hours to go. I can’t wait for decent toilets, showers and bed in the Shangri La Hotel in Kathmandu. I’m convinced that I’m too soft and like the comforts of home too much.
Our Nightly Entertainment
One of the fascinating things about the trek has been the camaraderie amongst the trekkers, the guides and the Sherpas. We don’t spend any time with the porters as they usually head off ahead of us. Apart from Rose and myself there is Russell, a classical guitarist from London. He currently works in the office of a fashion design house. He has made recordings of his playing for his own use. He and Ananta have entertained us with their guitar playing every evening along the way. Each lodge has its own guitar. Russell has played a variety of classical and jazz pieces, some he has written himself. Ananta has a broad repertoire, including a wide knowledge of Beatles songs. He taught himself to play with lessons accessed over the internet. He also sings along to his own playing.
Members of Our Trekking Group
Linda, perhaps a few years younger than me (I haven’t asked her), is from Horsham Victoria. She is accompanying Jenny, her daughter and Jen’s partner James who are both currently working in London. Then there is Jade and Kane from Darwin. Kane is a builder and his wife Jade is a high school teacher of Maths and Science. She is a few months pregnant and has really struggled with the food and with morning sickness.
The last member of the group is Kath from Melbourne. She is a trained nurse who recently changed jobs and is contracted to do Enterprise Bargaining Agreements for different organisations. She is by far the “life of the party†type person who tries to keep spirits up. While I get along well with her, I can imagine that over time I could only take her in small doses.
After the trek I will be going to Chitwan with Kane and Jade and that will be good for companionship. I get along quite well with them. Apart from a few annoying little things, overall the group is very easy to get along with. There has been very little swearing and that is a pleasant aspect of the trek.
Rose has just arrived back from looking at the shopping area here in Namche. She bought me a Mars Bar and a bottle of Sprite. The Mars Bar was very enjoyable. Bless her.
Kathmandu to Lukla, Nepal
Day 3: Tuesday 3rd January 2006
Flight to Lukla
Our early morning call was at 4:30am. We showered and dressed and went downstairs for breakfast at 5am. It was hard to eat adequately knowing the excitement building up within oneself. The anticipation of the flight into Lukla was also playing a little on my mind. I am also not used to eating at such an early hour. I had managed to get about five hours sleep but Rose said my snoring had kept her awake.
At 5:50am we were all ready to leave for the airport. The roads were much quieter but the drivers were just as crazy. The passage through the Domestic Airport was very smooth but we were all frisked three times. It is good that the local authorities are so thorough about security. We also had our bags searched.
Delay at Kathmandu Airport
We had about an hour’s wait for the airport at Lukla to clear of mist. The plane was small with 17 passengers and three crew members. The take off was smooth and the view from the window was spectacular all the way. It was a 40 minute flight to Lukla and I thought that it was quite reasonable except near the end when I was pleased that I had not eaten more than a light breakfast of fruit. On the other hand all of the other trekkers thought that the flight was very rough and were not looking forward to the return flight at the end of the trek.
Yeti Airlines
Yes – you read correctly. We flew Yeti Airlines to Lukla. The planes they use here in Nepal are small STOL (Short Take Off and Landing – for more information click here). Other planes cannot land on some of the air strips in Nepal as they need longer runways. They are cramped, noisy and not recommended for those with claustrophobic tendencies! The aisle is narrow, the seats seem only just big enough for the very thinnest of people and if you are tall, like James from our trekking group – be sure to get an aisle seat to stretch out your legs. Otherwise your knees end up around your ears.
The WOW Factor
As I stepped out of the plane at Lukla my immediate response was “WOW!” The sight of the towering mountains on every side is almost overwhelming. Tears to the eyes stuff. Dreams come true! I’m here in the heart of the Himalayas.
Preparing for Trekking
Day 2: Monday January 2nd 2006
Birding in Kathmandu
We returned to the Shangri La Hotel for lunch. The three of us, including Kath, the trekker from Melbourne, had lunch in the beautiful hotel garden. During the lunch we enjoyed the sunshine while we waited and while we ate. It was about 18 degrees C and very pleasant. I was delighted to observe several Rose Ringed Parakeets flying overhead. I have also seen House Crows and Common Ravens around the streets of Kathmandu. I haven’t seen many birds on this trip so far. I hope this is about to change.
Dodgy power supplies
After lunch I went to the hotel Business Centre to send several emails home. The power went off briefly for a few seconds while I was there but I didn’t lose any of my email message. I guess the power here can be a little dodgy at times. Meanwhile Rose went to the street nearby to do some shopping.
Trekking group meeting
At 3pm we had a meeting with our guide Ananta and all of the other trekkers. The other six trekkers had recently arrived from Pokhara. They had all been on a six day trek of the Annapurna region near Pokhara. Only one other trekker is about my age; all the others are in their twenties or early thirties. My immediate impression is that they are all very pleasant.
Preparing for trekking
We received our duffle bags, a very warm parka and a sleeping bag, all on loan from Peregrine Travel, our travel agent. I realised immediately that I would have to trim down what I took on the trek to the barest minimum. I will have to balance this with making sure I have enough warm clothing with me. Before writing this I did a pre-trek pack and it is not as bad as I thought at first. I will be able to fit in everything I need without leaving behind any essentials. Being able to do some washing along the way will be handy. What we didn’t need for the trek we were able to leave locked away in our suitcases in a secure area in the hotel. I also left some items like cash, traveller’s cheques and passport in the hotel safe.
Some doubts
At the meeting I did have a few moments of “what am I about to do?†Will I cope with the walking, the climbing and the altitude? It is reassuring to have Rose here with me. It is also very good to have the entire organisation done for us, things like transport, fees, accommodation and food. Still, it will be a huge physical and mental challenge. It will be a genuine test of all that I have and all that I am. The dream of visiting this area, a dream of more than 25 years, is about to become reality.
Touring Kathmandu, Nepal
Day 2: Monday 2nd January 2006.
Sightseeing in KathmanduÂ
Both Rose and I had a reasonable night’s sleep but I am still waking up very early. I think I must be still working on South Australian time. After showering and dressing we went down to the hotel restaurant for breakfast. At nine o’clock we were picked up by our guide for the morning. We got in the mini-bus bus for the half hour journey through the city. I am constantly amazed that there are so few accidents. The traffic is barely organised chaos. We did see one policeman on point duty at one busy intersection. I have not yet seen any traffic lights. Our driver had to dodge pedestrians walking everywhere. Then there were bicycles, motor cycles, trucks, buses, all sorts of cars, taxis, dogs, cows, ducks but the monkeys seem to keep to the buildings and trees.
 Temple visits
We first visited a Hindu temple and monastery. We were able to witness a cremation on the opposite river bank. Our guide was very good at explaining everything. We then travelled to a Buddhist stupa. This was a magnificent structure made even more colourful by the thousands of prayer flags strung up from the edges to the top. Around the edge there were many prayer wheels. Pilgrims were circumventing the stupa turning the wheels as they went. We visited a temple nearby.
 Shopping in Kathmandu
We were also able to watch a group of Buddhist monks painting designs relevant to their faith. Each painting took three to four months to complete. We were free then to wander around and do some shopping in the bazaar around the perimeter of the stupa. Our guide invited us to visit her shop. Rose and I both bought some beautiful pashminas from her.
We also visited a carpet factory. Here we watched a group of Tibetan refugees making beautiful carpets varying in size from less than a square metre up to four by three metres. It was a shame that they were too big to bring home in a suitcase. The shop section can arrange for export to anywhere in the world, but I didn’t ask how much it would cost. The whole enterprise has Swiss financial backing.
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