Beggars in the streets of Kathmandu
Wherever I walked around the streets of Kathmandu I was confronted by a variety of beggars. These ranged from little children with big brown alluring eyes as young as three or four through to cunning and very street wise teenagers. Mothers with babes in arms begging for milk money are also common. Poverty seems to be very much a problem in this nation struggling to come into the twenty first century world. Their political problems of the last decade have not helped. While begging is common place, seeing derelicts like the man in the above photo do not appear to be so common, at least in the areas I visited.
It is worth quoting from my travel journal at this point.
Begging in Kathmandu
Sadly I was pestered by at least four beggars today. They are very persistent but one just has to turn away and walk quickly. Mothers with babes in arms asking for milk for the baby is a common approach. I felt mean but all the guides tell one not to give to beggars here in Nepal.
I also had a very interesting encounter with a canny teenager.
A different approach to begging
Walking back to the hotel I was approached in a different way. A young lad, perhaps 12 or 13 years old, was leaning on the wall of a building with several friends. He started walking alongside of me and struck up a conversation. I was astounded by his general knowledge of the world. His specialty was capital cities of the world. He knew all of the Australian cricketers and many place names in Australia. He said he didn’t go to school but had learned everything by reading books and using the internet. Then came the sting; he asked me for money to buy a drink. I steadfastly refused and wouldn’t give him a reason, even though he asked several times.
I just kept on walking and gently but firmly told him he should go back to his friends. Eventually he did leave me. Twenty steps on I looked around and one of his friends had been following us. Had I given in there may have been far more to contend with. I didn’t feel unsafe; I was just being very cautious. Lesson learned!
Bhimsen Tower, central Kathmandu, Nepal
Kathmandu is a city of surprises. Many old buildings dominate the twisting and turning streets and lanes of the older parts of the city. Temples abound and one is never far from one of these impressive, and ancient buildings. It came as something of a surprise then, to see this impressive and relatively modern looking tower in the heart of central Kathmandu.
The Bhimsen Tower, standing tall like a thin white lighthouse very much out of place, is a dominant feature of the skyline of this part of the capital. I used it often to get my bearings as I wandered the alleyways exploring many fascinating aspects of Nepali life.The tower, also known as Sundhara, is a popular tourist attraction and people could be seen looking out over the city from the viewing platform near the top. Around the base, tents, marquees and street stalls were being prepared for some festivities the next day.
The tower, originally built by a Rama prime minister, was a part of the city’s first European style palace. It was severely damaged in the earthquake of 1934 and subsequently rebuilt.
Cycle rickshaws in Kathmandu
During my stay in Kathmandu I usually walked to and from my destinations for the day. When the distance was too far I used taxis which are very cheap when compared to Australian prices. There are many other choices for getting around the city. One of these ways, especially in the narrower streets of the older parts of the city, is by using a cycle rickshaw like those shown in the photos above and below.
Although I never used one of these forms of transport, rickshaws are an excellent and cheap way of getting around the twisting narrow streets. They can go places where the taxi drivers cannot go and seemed ideal for short trips. They also have a side benefit; they do not add to the pollution in the Kathmandu Valley and that has to be a big plus in their favour.
Specialty shops in Kathmandu
Like all towns and cities Kathmandu has many specialty shops. The one in the photo shows one such shop. All the items in this shop were made from some kind of metal, mostly copper I think. And there was an incredible variety of different kinds of objects for sale. I actually stood there mesmerised for quite a few minutes, taking in the beautiful artwork and the incredible range of goods for sale.
Many of the items for sale were utilitarian in nature, like ornate jugs, plates, bowls and water pots. Then there were amazingly complex art objects, simple mugs, beautiful saucepans and ornate religious items. Most were carefully polished and wonderfully displayed.
More about shopping in Kathmandu
Yesterday I wrote about the retail outlets for clothing in the Thamel district of central Kathmandu. These shops are not just confined to this area and similar outlets can be found throughout the city. Sometimes they are not shops but merely displays of clothing or materials right on the footpath.
In the case of the vendor in the photo above, their ‘shop’ was in the square in front of the temple shown in the background. I would imagine that they could not afford to rent a shop space in the commercial heart of the city so they set up this street outlet to tap into the extra trade brought about by the heavy pedestrian and tourist traffic in this area. They might also have lived some distance away because they could not afford accommodation in the central area of the capital.
Whatever the reason, their ‘shop’ added some brilliant colour to an otherwise drab square.