Travels in Nepal #7 Suspension bridges
One of the challenges with trekking the Himalayas in Nepal is crossing the suspension bridges. They are unavoidable. On our trek last January I lost count of the number we crossed; it must have been at least eight or nine, perhaps more. Of course, we had to cross each one twice because we returned to Lukla via the same route.
I knew that the bridges could be a potential problem for me. I’m not exactly paranoid about heights; I just respect them with a great deal of caution. Most of the bridges are well secured to minimise the swinging. What they can’t do is do away with the distance between the bridge and the rocks below. Sometimes this can be as little as five metres. On one bridge it must be at least fifty. On my return home I was viewing a photo of one bridge I had taken from below near the water’s edge. I was shocked that I had actually crossed that bridge without fear! Caution yes, but little fear.
Another hazard is the yak trains. If it can be avoided one tries not to be on a bridge at the same time as a yak train. They tend to take up the whole width of the bridge. I was caught once but suffered no ill effects, but I did have to lean out over the edge to avoid getting pushed by these endearing beasts of burden.
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Travels in Nepal #6 Hitting the wall
On the morning of the first day of our trek in the Himalayas we went from Lukla to the village of Phakding. Much of this three and a half hour trek goes gradually downhill. I was very aware, however, how careful one has to be. I wanted so much to be watching the constantly changing scenery. After all, that was a major reason for coming here. The track was sometimes flat and smooth but more often it was rocky and uneven. Twisted ankles or bad falls are a very real possibility every step of the way.
Just before arriving at Phakding the track dips down to a river crossing and then sharply rises to the village. Up to that point I had been progressing quite well. The steep climb up to the village was my next great challenge. I felt I had “hit the wall” as athletes often describe. I was able to persevere and push through both the physical and mental barrier of this challenge. In reality, I did quite well, arriving about twenty minutes after the rest of the trekking group, most of whom were over twenty years younger than me. Lunch and plenty to drink at the lodge was most welcome.
In retrospect, I had the added discomfort brought on by the onset of diabetes. I am writing this some eight months later and have just been diagnosed in the last few weeks. How I managed the trek without any kind of help or medication now astounds me. It just makes the achievement even more pleasing.
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Travels in Nepal #5 Stunning scenery
As we forged our way up through the valley on that first day of the trek I realised several things very quickly.
- Physical Challenge: This trek was going to be a little more challenging than I had been led to believe. Although I had trained hard for the trek, nothing in the flat terrain of Murray Bridge in South Australia where I live can prepare one for the steepness of the Himalayan mountains.
- Cultural challenge: Nothing one can do at home can prepare you for the vast cultural differences between Australia and Nepal. Every step of the way brings a new experience, a new insight, and a new slant on this fascinating culture.
- Mental challenge: One aspect of trekking the Himalayan mountains I had not been warned about was the mental challenge of hiking in this region. It is just as much a mental challenge as a physical one. After only a few hours of walking one begins to question why one is prepared to put one’s body through torture. The answer is simple: I do it because I dreamed of doing this for decades, I do it because the scenery is absolutley stunning, like nothing else on Earth and I do it for the sheer pleasure of achievement.
Travels in Nepal #4 Our trek starts
After the excitement of the flight into Lukla we were ready for anything. A calming cuppa in a nearby lodge helped before our first taste of the adventure set before us.
Lukla is one of the larger villages in the Everest region. It probably would be more accurate to call it a town. It is heavily dependent on tourism these days, trekking in particular. Anyone trekking towards Mt Everest will pass through the town at the start of their trek. There are many lodges, hotels, internet cafes, trekking supply shops and general tourist type shops. We stopped for none of them. We were keen to start on the trek.
As we left the town we followed the valley towards our first overnight stop. As we kept up a good pace along the track we passed many farms and houses like that in the picture above. The whole valley was delightful. Quaint and humble dwellings and tiny villages were brightened by the colour of the prayer flags strung up everywhere.
The most impressive aspect of this first day’s trek was the sheer magnitude of the mountains. I could not have imagined that mountains could be so steep, so high, so magnificent and so totally awesome. Overworked words, yes, but it was just how I felt. Words do not do the amazing terrain any justice at all. It has to be experienced to be believed.
Travels in Nepal #3 Flight to Lukla
Anticipation
The anticipation of the trek beforeme hit me hard when we had a trekking group meeting in the gardens of the hotel. Suddenly I was torn between the excitement of seeing the mountains I had dreamed of for several decades and the feeling of “What have I let myself in for?”
My little moment of terror must have shown in my eyes. My daughter said it was quite easy to see that I was way out of my comfort zone. It was her idea that we go on this trek. She was on her way home to Australia after a teaching exchange in England for all of 2005. It had take me but a few seconds to agree to join her. Then it had taken me 18 months of hard training to be ready.
In the early 1980s I had a deep desire to go trekking the Himalayas. I read every books I could get my hands on, but then the conservative, steady, sensible me took over. Too hard, too complicated (with a young family) and too expensive. I shelved – no buried – my dreams. Now it was about to be realised. The anticipation was almost overwhelming.
The flight to Lukla
I had been warned by my travel agent that the flight to Lukla was spectacular but inclined to be a bit rough. All part of the excitement, all part of the adventure. Others on the trek seemed a little overwhelmed by the experience but I found it exhilarating. And the view when one alights at Lukla airport is simply stunning. Nothing had prepared me for the absolute grandeur of the scenery.
To read more about Lukla airport and the landing click here.